DIY mini split compressor in basement INTRO

DIY mini split compressor in basement INTRO

My name is Omar Lutfey I have created Lutfey Innovations to develop better heating and cooling systems today I’m going to explain our plan to install a heat pump in an existing home to increase heating and cooling efficiency a 3/4 ton 9,000 BTU power mini-split air conditioner and heat pump will be installed to supplement the existing forced air system while heat pumps are very efficient as they exist today we are testing a new installation which we believe will even further increase efficiency traditionally the compressor unit of a heat pump is installed on the outside of a building on this project we will be installing the compressor unit in the unfinished basement of the home this configuration will allow the unit to exchange heat with a constant supply of 55 degree air in the summertime the unit will draw less power adding heat to the cool air of the basement compared to the 100 degree outside hair in the wintertime the unit will remove heat from the 55 degree basement instead of from the freezing outside air in addition to increasing efficiency this setup will keep the compressor unit in a controlled environment this should increase the life of the unit as it will be stored at a constant temperature and not exposed to rain and snow our next video will show the installation process and measure the efficiency of the unit thanks for watching

Best 24 Hour Furnace Repair In Frederick, Maryland

Best 24 Hour Furnace Repair In Frederick, Maryland

Are you in need of furnace repair? Is your current furnace breaking down or not operating properly? If so, you’ve come to the right place! We’re proud to be the premiere local furnace repair service and we pride ourselves on being professional, reliable and affordable. Customer satisfaction is our number one priority. Our furnace technicians have years of experience repairing all major brands of furnaces and we get the job done right the first time. So contact us now and find out why so many local customers come to us for all of their furnace repair needs. .

Puddle Flange Installation. Why Do You Need It?

Puddle Flange Installation. Why Do You Need It?

G’day, guys. How you going? Just want to talk to you about puddle flanges We have a situation like this You can see it’s just a bathroom with a fibrous floor Highly flex floor And this is the floor waste that goes out the outside here Now normally they just maybe tile up to it like this and then they put the grate in, okay But the trouble is water can get in between there later on down the future when it all starts to move and then once it starts getting wet The termites love that you know wet wood and they’ll go nuts underneath That’s why we install something like this called a puddle flange So you can see this will be glued onto the floor with a really good silicon and this fits inside tthe pipe like this That means any water can’t come underneath it has to go through here and down into the pipe and so that means no water can come through there, you see Once that’s glued down with the silicon properly you put the nice grate on and then the membrane gets painted on the floor like this the whole way around and then the tiler can tile up to it with the 18 mm grate stuck in there And any water that goes through they can you know come through and come down and come inside the pipe and there’s no way that can you know get underneath and make this a little wet So really the solution is very important Get your plumber to chuck one of these in if you have any of these wood homes like the one up in Gooseberry Hill

Furnace Repair Giveaway

Furnace Repair Giveaway

A DAY, YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING AT? IT’S OKAY, I HAVE SOMEONE WHO IS AN EXPERT WHO HAS BEEN WORKING HERE FOR SWAP — FOR QUITE SOME TIME WHAT’S WRONG WITH THE FURNACE? WE HAD A BAD CONTROL BOARD YOU DID TELL ME THAT. SO, THIS IS A BUNCH OF RELAYS IN SWITCHES AND IN THE OLD DAYS, THEY WOULD BE MOUNTED ELSEWHERE. AND WE CAN REPLACE THEM ONE AT A TIME UNFORTUNATELY, THE RELAYS WHEN OUT SO WE — WENT OUT TO WE HAD TO REPLACE THEM. THE WHOLE REASON THAT WE ARE TALKING ABOUT THIS IS IT’S THE HOLIDAYS IT’S COLD AND IT’S PROBABLY THE WORST TIME NOT THAT THERE’S EVER A GOOD TIME AND IT COULD BE EXPENSIVE TO REPLACE.

THIS COULD BE UPWARDS OF $10,000 TO REPLACE THE SYSTEM YOU KNOW, WE REPLACE THE CONTROL BOARD FOR ABOUT 500. SO, WE WANT TO LEAVE THAT DECISION UP TO YOU. AND THAT IS WHAT IS SO AWESOME ABOUT YOUR BUSINESS IS YOU ARE TALKING LAST NIGHT IT’S SO IMPORTANT WHEN YOU’RE DEALING WITH PEOPLE TO LET THEM HAS A — HAVE THAT VISION. YOU ARE WORKING — ARE WORKING WITH A FAMILY WHO NEEDED THE HEAT AND YOU ARE DOING SOMETHING PRETTY AWESOME CAN YOU TELL EVERYBODY ABOUT THE GIVEAWAY? SO, BETWEEN DECEMBER 1 AND 15th, WE ARE HAVING THE DRAWING SUBMITTING THE EMAILS AND TRYING TO COME UP WITH A DESERVING FAMILY WHO MAY NEED A REPAIR SO IF YOU KNOW ANYBODY WHO MAY NOT HAVE THE FUNDS TO MAKE REPAIRS, LET US KNOW WE WILL JOB — WILL HELP OUT A FAMILY ON THE 15th.

WHAT AN AMAZING GIFT, SO FOR PEOPLE WHO ARE HAVING THE TELLTALE SIGNS THAT THERE OR SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE FURNACE. YES, ONE OF THE SCIENCES YOU DON’T TURN ON YOUR AIR CONDITIONER OR HEATER AT THE THERMOSTAT AND IF YOU’RE JUST GETTING COLD AIR THAT IS A REALLY POSITIVE SIGN THAT YOU ARE DEFINITELY GOING TO BE TO CALL SOMEBODY OUT AND TO GET IT TAKEN CARE OF. THERE YOU HAVE IT. WE CAN HOW MUCH TIME TO GO THROUGH ALL THOSE DETAILS THAT — BUT HE WAS SAYING JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING CAN BE REPLACED GO LET THEM FIGURE OUT IF YOU NEED TO HAVE IT REPAIRED TO HAVE IT REPLACED. SO IF YOU KNOW SOMEBODY WHO NEEDS IT, ALL THE DETAILS ABOUT WHO TO CONTACT OUR OWN WEBSITE. HE WILL TAKE CARE OF YOU. .

Roof mounted AC (Package Unit) vs Split System

Roof mounted AC (Package Unit) vs Split System

“Make a precision decision with Precision Air. Trained professionals with integrity. Call 602FIXMYAC. Make a precision decision with Precision Air.” Hello everybody. Erik Bryan here, owner of Precision Air & Heating. Since 1995, we have performed well over 250,000 service calls across the valley. We thought, what better way to share our experience and know-how than answering some common homeowner questions. Matt from Phoenix asks, “Erik, if I get an A/C system on my roof, is it more expensive?” Good question Matt. The reality of the situation is this….the cost between a package unit on the roof and a traditional split system on the ground or in your closet or attic, should be identically the same. Now a couple of key points to note here is that the installation of a split system is typically more difficult.

Getting air handlers to fit up in the attics or getting an air handler to properly fit inside a closet or a cabinet that you might have, can sometimes be a challenge. The instillation of a package unit on the room is generally just a good, old-fashioned stand, an elbow….a crane comes in and drops the unit down…button it up, hook the electrical up…it’s really pretty simple. To answer your question, the cost between any type of equipment should be the same. Hopefully that answers your question Matt. Thank you for sharing your questions. I hope this helps shed some light on keeping your home operating properly and as efficiently as possible. If you have questions regarding your A/C, heating, plumbing, or home performance needs, post your questions on our Facebook page and check back for additional videos. Who knows, we might just answer your question next. “Make a precision decision with Precision Air.” .

Review Douglasville, Ga Heating and Air Conditioning Contractors — Ragsdales — Douglasville, Ga

Review Douglasville, Ga Heating and Air Conditioning Contractors — Ragsdales — Douglasville, Ga

Hey Scott here today we’re reviewing Douglasville Georgia based heating and air company now having expanded operations as a full service plumbing company that we’ve turned inside now in order to provide local residents a helpful industry review of Ragsdale’s heating and air and plumbing contractor after years leading the way is one of the finest HVAC companies in the metro Atlanta area owner artrex they’ll listen to many of the over 5,000 amazing client testimonials several of which clamored for a reliable local plumbing contractor showing why he’s one of Elena’s leaders in the HBC in plumbing industry are is answered to call by expanding his operations to add a wide array of residential plumbing services must filling as communities need for an honest and dependable plumbing contractor in our overall review including both the HVAC and plumbing operation Ragsdale screens out with excellent marks across the board browse standing customer support reputable reviews and testimonials much more so if you live in douglasville powder springs lithia springs Dallas Hiram or austell areas of West alena and you need heating and air conditioning services or outstanding plumbing services including repairs and installations check out Ragsdale’s from amongst a thousand plus HVAC and plumbing contractors in the metro area Ragsdale’s is the only company receiving our seal of industry excellence to learn more about Ragsdale’s check out their details below and give them a call today again congratulations to our Ragsdale and his entire team Ragsdale’s

Thermostat Clicks But Heater Not Turning On Fan Works AC Runs But Heat No Start Repair Video

Thermostat Clicks But Heater Not Turning On Fan Works AC Runs But Heat No Start Repair Video

Welcome back to Kung Fu Maintenance! Wanted to tell you, show you, about one I had the other day. What happened was right at the end of the day I saw that there was a work order for a no heat call. Went and checked it out. The hydronic valves were turned off and turned those on. Came over to the thermostat and turned it on but nothing turned on. I could see. the flame signal here. Much like this one. Now usually when you do it you will hear the little click when it turns on. On that particular one I did hear the click and that kind of signified to me that the thermostat was working. I turned the fan to on. The fan kicked on. I turned the A/C on and the AC kicked on. Turned it to cool and auto. Lowered the temperature down and everything kicked on there right away. So I knew at that point that it wasn’t the service door switch. Didn’t know what it was but what I did was pullk the cover off.

Now before I do that I want to show you the little click. I will raise my temperature up so the heater will turn on a little bit. You hear that click? That’s signifying that my unit is getting ready to fire up as the heater has now been signaled to turn on. But underneath. I will show you here. What you have got is your red cold jumper and the red hot jumper wire. That fatter red wire that is back there. I got kind of lucky and noticed right away that the insulation part, even much like it is here, the insulation portion was up inside the screw port. So All I had to do was loosen the screw a little bit. Move the wire down a tiny bit so that the wire was actually making contact with the screw port so we would have continuity.

And that’s all it was. The screw instead of clamping the wire down was clamping the insulation down. Insulation was making contact so that the heater wasn’t turning on even though it was sending the call for heat from the thermostat. It wasn’t being transmitted through the hot wire so. Nice easy fix. Thought I would show it to you guys. Hope it saves you some trouble.You know.

It’s rare but these are the things that happen and a little bit on the troubleshooting that happens. Obviously if a wire is not making contact there things are not going to turn on. And one other thing I had checked on this which should be checked when a thermostat is not working. One thing to check on theses is the jumper pin or the switch setting. This one has a little switch down here where right is for gas heating and left is for electric heating. That particular one was set for electric heating which is common to all of my other units for hydronic heating. So it wasn’t that. So again it was that insulation that was blocking. So that the wire wasn’t making contact on the RH wire. Anyway. Thanks for watching! .

Home Maintenance : How to Balance HVAC Air Flow

Home Maintenance : How to Balance HVAC Air Flow

Hi, I’m Tim Gipson, and I’m going to talk to you about how to balance your HVAC. Now, when your HVAC system is installed in your house, your installer actually goes through some steps where they look at how much intake and your system is designed for the amount of space you have. So they look at your intake and then they look at your output. And your diffusers. So there’s certain things that they do to make sure that that airflow is balanced and they actually have testing equipment. Now despite the efforts of going through that you may run into circumstances at a different time of the year, various parts of your house may be warmer or cooler than other parts of the house.

So there are some things that you can do to balance that out, and to even out those comfort areas in your house. So here we have our – what we call a diffuser. Now all of these diffusers are adjustable. All of the ones that you’ll see in your house, most of them are adjustable. And they simply have a little slide knob on the side. So as you slide this to one side, it actually changes the angle of these blades up in here, that if we slide it all the way over you can actually close it off. So if you have a bedroom say that you are not using, you can actually put more airflow into other areas of your home. You can actually close off these diffusers and close that door and not actually heat or cool that portion of your house. And that can provide some energy savings. And by sliding this back now if this particular room where we had – if it tended to be in the summer a little colder than other areas of the house, then what we can do is actually close down these vents and that will actually restrict some of the airflow into this room.

So to keep this – keep the cool air. Same thing in the winter. Now most of your typical homes now, if they are two level homes, they actually have two level units. They have a unit for upstairs and a unit for downstairs. But if you happen to live in a home where you have just one unit, in the winter you may want to have most of your warm air coming downstairs, because warm air rises. And then in the summer where you may want to have most of your air going upstairs to offset the warmer temperatures up there. So those are some times where you may run into balancing. So I’m Tim Gipson and that’s how to balance your HVAC system. .

Gas Oven Won’t Heat – How to Repair (Part 2 of 2), Replace Ignitor

Gas Oven Won’t Heat – How to Repair (Part 2 of 2), Replace Ignitor

– Alright everyone, welcome to Tomahawk DIY. Today I’m going to show you how to get the igniter unscrewed here the easy way. You can check out my other video that shows the troubleshooting to reach this point and but I neglected to show how to actually remove it easily. So let’s take a look at that. See the other video to get to this point and this is how you get the igniter off. I’m going to come under the oven. And there’s two bolts and a screw we need to undo right back there, these two bolts. Careful not to drop them or lose them. Okay, we got the two bolts. Now let’s get this screw. So, screw right there. Again, save yourself some headache, be sure you don’t drop them. It’d be hard to retrieve them under the oven.

In the other video, I already showed disconnecting the cables and the igniter right here and right there. So with those two out, that’s going to let the whole burner assembly slide out. We’re going to come up here, undo this bolt. With that bolt out, we can… get the entire igniter assembly out and then take the bolts off here. We’ll put the new one back on. Alright, so we undo the bolts that are holding this igniter in place. Now, I’ll include a link down below to Amazon where you can pick up a replacement igniter and once you’ve got your igniter off, you put the new one back on. Just reverse the entire process. Alright, with the igniter back on and before I put this back In, we need to get the leads, the wire leads, reconnected.

So we’ll undo the wire nuts. I’ll have to get these… wires off. May take a little bit of work. Now, I don’t know that it makes a difference on which one connects to which one, but we’re going to connect the same way. The red one… on this side and the white one on the other. Let’s put your wires together into the wire nut. And twist it on. Alright, with the wire nuts back, if the new igniter’s not working, probably the first thing to check is to make sure these are getting good contact with your wires. Now we can slide the entire assembly back in. We’re going to start by getting the wires down. And then after that, it’s a matter of putting the bolts back in the way you took them out and testing your igniter.

Alright, after you’ve got your wires threaded in up here and your burner, this is an important part, don’t forget to keep the burner lined up over the gas tip right here. You’ll know it’s in good spot when your bolt holds her on and this is right over the gas line. If you missed that, you might have some problems with gas coming in the wrong spot. Okay, we’ve almost got these two bolts back in.

And then one screw, that screw goes right there. And that holds the burner assembly in place. Alright, while you’re under here get your wires plugged back in. The red one on this side. And the white one… over on this side. Alright. Snap that together. With those back, come back inside and do the bolt on the top of the burner. So that’s the bolt right here. With the wires reconnected, let’s test and make sure our oven’s gonna work. (beeping) So turn it on. Okay, there we see an igniter lighting up.

Let’s see if we got a flame now. Looks hot enough for a fire to me. Ah there we go, the burner’s on. So there you have it. Now you can go back to my other video to check out the rest of the disassembly. Let’s turn this off before it gets everything too hot. Sorry, you can go back to my other video now to check out the rest of the reassembly. Obviously if you’ve done tests like this, make sure everything turns off and cools down before you get back in the oven. Make sure you’re being safe in everything you do. Don’t forget to subscribe, like the video, leave some comments and pick up some parts on Amazon. Have a great day. .

How a Chiller, Cooling Tower and Air Handling Unit work together

How a Chiller, Cooling Tower and Air Handling Unit work together

Hi there Paul here from the engineering mindset calm in this video we’re going to look at the basic operation of a centralized chilled water system and this is very typical in in office buildings all around the world and we’ve got a little model here of a basic built office building stripped of all its insides and if you can imagine normally these floors will be filled with people and computers the server rooms and it’s going to generate a lot of heat especially when the Sun is beating down on the building in the middle of summer so this building is going to have to produce a lot of cooling to handle that heat and keep the inside of the building in a very nice temperature so how does it do that well you need some plant items first and in this very typical setup we’ve got a chiller here along with the distribution pumps the air handling units and the cooling tower which is up on the roof so the chiller is the the producer of chilled water in this system and the chiller has two main cylinders one is the evaporator here and that’s where the chilled or cold water is produced and the other cylinder is this at the back here which is the condenser which is the condenser silver and that is where the heat of the building is sent oh it’s collected and sent to the the cooling towers now a real cello will look something like this we have the evaporator the chilled side which is in this case all insulated to keep that cool cool thin side and then you’ve got the compressor on top as well as the power supply and the control to the system as well this is a centrifugal chiller there’s lots of different types which we will go into detail in this video I just need to understand the basics of how this building is called so the chilled water leaves the evaporator and it’s pulled out in this instance by the by the pump sometimes it can be pushed in in this case it’s being pulled out it’s depending on the system and the design of the chiller and you’ll notice that I’ve covered these pipes in one of the dark blue that’s for leaving the evaporator and I put a dark blue so that you know that it is a much cooler temperature so this is leaving at about 8 degrees something may or may be 6 to 8 degrees and is leaving in this design at 54 liters per second the other pipe the lighter blue one that is so you know it is a higher temperature and in this instance it’s about 14 degrees Celsius we have 12 to 14 maybe you look very higher maybe lower it all depends on the design of the system and the load of the building in the in the real world though these these pipes will not be this color then they could be but they’ll unlikely to be in the real world they will look something like this and you’ll you can see here we’ve got chill CHW chilled water flow and an arrow so you obviously understand where it’s going and chilled water returned we’ve set the pretty standard color bands and arrows and labeling system there and this is in almost every plant room you’ll find the pipe to be labeled and note noted this way but for illustration purposes I’ve just covered them in here so you get a better understanding of what is happening in the system so the pump is pulling this chilled water about eight degrees and it is sending it up into the riser a real-live pump looks something like this this is the direct coupled centrifugal pump with the motor on the back here and then it’s coupled straight on to the pump here which is under some installations you can’t see it unfortunately in this photo but that chilled water is sent up into the riser which this pipes here and they that riser those risers rise the height of the building and branching off of the risers are some feeds flow return into these which are air handling units in the real world the air handling units will probably look something like this this is a very small example there are much larger designs and even smaller units than this as well but it all depends on the design and the load of the building here we’ve got the flow returned and it’s going into the coil here which I’m going to explain about just shortly and we’ve got one coil here for heating and one for cooling as well which I’ll talk about next so the air handling unit its purpose is to take the warm air within the office floor we it gets pulled in through a fan and that fan then rejects it out the other side and it’s distributed off through some ductwork often various points in the office to where it’s needed and inside this air hanging unit is a coil and the coil looks something like this in the real world and chilled water enters the coil and makes its way up for always little little loops here and then back out the top here so that enters at about eight degrees in this example and by the time it reaches the top there it’ll leave that cooling coil at about fourteen degrees so that rising temperature is the result of the air which is passing through this air handling unit cooling down so the warm air enters it hits this coil the coil transfers it’s cool into the air and the air transfers its heat into the coil the air leaves at a lower temperature and the water then leaves at a higher temperature the air handling units they could be one per four there could be multiple per for all it could be one on the flow here and the ductwork serves the number of floors below and this is just illustration purposes to just help you understand that so that a chilled returned water goes back into a riser and that is fed back down into the evaporator of the chiller inside the chiller is a separate system which is running around between the compressor the condenser in the evaporator as well as the the vane guide at the bottom there and that is a refrigeration cycle happening in there and what’s happening there is the heat within this pipe here though is being carried away by the refrigerant and sent into the condenser where it can dump its heat and be taken away to the cooling towers inside the chiller it will look something like this so we’ve got the evaporator side here the cooler side and the condenser side here as well as the compressor and the vane guide at the bottom there so the refrigerant is just flow around this system here transferring that heat from one side to the other and going to another continuous loop we’ve got some other videos on the refrigeration cycle if you want to learn more just check out our videos so now that the heat in this pipe here has been transferred over to the condenser side the condenser then sends this water which is now it’s just now called the condenser water and sends that up to the tower and in this instance I’ve colored this pipe red so that you know it’s a higher temperature and in this example that’s good it’s about 35 degrees Celsius OC and it’s for the flow rate of about 58 litres a second as well being sent up to the cooling towers that can change us it’s just on this design for illustration purposes and we’ve got the condenser return water here and in this example it’s about 28 degrees so it’s lost in atomic is up to the cooling tower and comes back it’s lost about 7 degrees in this instance that’s at design though in rip in the real world it may not be as high as that in the winter it wouldn’t would be much lower to but yesterday in the real world the condenser the pipe work it looks own like this so oh sorry that’s the wrong one that’s children to return it will just say condenser water here and we’ll have some markings on colors there I’ve used the wrong image apologies so that warm condenser water is sent up to the cooling towers on the roof of the building and in this instance it’s and open cooling tower so that means that the warm condensed water enters into the cooling tower and is sprayed and that spray is then runs down the inside of the cooling towers collect at the bottom running in the opposite direction is some is air being pulled by these fans here and that these fans pull the ambient air outside the building into the cooling tower and out up through the top in that process this warm condenser water will lose some of its heat and the air entering and leaving this cooling tower will it will leave a much higher temperature than when it came in it also left with some moisture so the relative humidity will have increased as well a real cooling tower looks something like this this is the bounty more air coil company this is a very typical cooling tower you’ll find on the roof of lots of buildings and just to give you an idea I’m not familiar with cooling towers this is New York City and as you can see almost every building here has cooling towers of one size or another some more than others it all depends on the size of the building and what’s happening inside there as well but they are on every big building in pretty much every city around the world so once this cooling tower has lost about seven degrees in the cooling process is collected at the bottom and it is sent back down to the condenser pump and that is then pushed back inside the condenser I’ve actually put this pump run the wrong way there that’s obviously coming out there should be the other way we pipe the other way but this is the free video so I’m not great together and yeah so this is where the the water the condenser water then comes back into here enters into these coils inside and picks up more heat and is sent back up to the cooling towers it’s important to note that this system here the condenser water system and the chilled water system are completely separated they do not interact they do not swap the water in between it is just the refrigerant that what happens in the refrigeration cycle between these units that’s the only thing that passes between them the water in here is sealed in tubes and and leaves again those pipes also in this instance we’ve got one plant item and my plant item I mean that a mechanical asset in the real world it’s unlikely you’ll have just one you’ll probably have n plus 1 so n whatever you need you have that number plus 1 because if this item here was the break or say this pump here was the break then we wouldn’t be able to produce called walk cooled water or condenser water and we wouldn’t be able to cool the building down so we’d always usually have at least two units then ill operate in duty and standby so only one plant item will operate at any one time and they will probably rotate their duty so that this pump will run for a week and the other one but then learn for the week afterwards and swap vice versa and that also allows you to carry out maintenance on the system as well on large buildings you’re more likely to have a more much more complex system than this you’ll have two three four chillers maybe even more than that and a lot more air handling units and cooling towers or bigger cooling towers and the complexity of the system is completely based on the load of the building you might even have a number of separate chilled water systems you could have a system which deals with critical so it’s generator fed and it supplies only the server rooms because they need cooling 24/7 and you’ll have this common a centralized system which handles there’s the space temperature within the floors but this is a very basic overview and we’ll go into more complex systems in later videos but thank you for watching and please check out our others